[Alt-photo] question

Kim Du Boise krd at photoartsimaging.com
Tue Oct 14 19:31:20 UTC 2014


Hello,

I made an error (due to interruption) on the fading of the cyanotype…I reversed the process related to fading.  My sincere apologies.  Cyanotypes do need oxygen, so that is why it is best to use only unbuffered paper enclosures for long term storage.  

Here is the Reversal:  Light will fade (reduce) the color when exposed to it along with a reductant.  If this happens, the color may be revived by dark storage as long as the print is in contact with the air.  

Richard:
As to the dry mounting sheets, it is not about the image as much as about the paper support and future need for conservation, or intervention in the event of accidental damage.  The use of the high heat for the standard sheets may be detrimental to the support paper and in the event of an accident (flood, storm, pipe break) it would be practically impossible to release a print from its mount board when time is of the essence.  

This introduces another reactive component into the question of whether or not it would migrate naturally through the paper.  Let me assure you, those sheets break down and leave a residue that will, in some circumstances, come through an uncoated photo paper support (think fiber-base papers), most likely with extreme humidification.   I had to remove a curled 16x20 mount last month before proceeding with flattening of the silver print, which had cockled due to being curled and partially loosened from the mount.

There are some papers that have been reintroduced that are appropriate for low heat applications.  However, until I have the testing results for long term use in hand that proves the product is safe for all photographic or printed materials, I do not recommend it.  The use of paper hinges or corners, starch, and a variety of products made for archival framing (neutral pH items) is a "safe" bet, proven with time.  

In Dr. Ware's paper (referenced), he explains how washing prints is critical for longevity, but also discusses the reason that we do not use water baths as a standard conservation technique for cyanotypes.  The simple act of washing or soaking a cyanotype can lead to dispersing, one of the three pathways of their destruction.  However, it is critical for the artist to use the final wash to rid the print of any residual chemistry that may lead to the other issues.

Sorry for the paper, but none of this is easily answered.

Regards,
Kim

Kim Du Boise
krd at photoartsimaging.com



On Oct 14, 2014, at 7:00 AM, alt-photo-process-list-request at lists.altphotolist.org wrote:

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> From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk at ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: [Alt-photo] question
> Date: October 13, 2014 11:20:28 PM CDT
> To: <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>
> Reply-To: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk at ix.netcom.com>
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kim Du Boise" <krd at photoartsimaging.com>
> To: <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>
> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 1:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [Alt-photo] question
> 
> 
>> Hello All,
>> 
> channels to "mount" the print to the backboard.  That is the safest way to deal with these prints, as the normal mounting materials (sheets, sprays, adhesives) are not going to play nice with your prints.
>> 
>> Hope this helps you, Geert.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Kim
> 
>    Does this include dry mounting tissue?  Sounds like it does.
> 
> 
> --
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles
> WB6KBL
> dickburk at ix.netcom.com 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Alt-photo-process-list | altphotolist.org



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