[Alt-photo] oxalate ferric problem
jmjusdado at gmail.com
Sun Mar 6 08:19:59 UTC 2016
El 06/03/16 a las 08:38, Gilles Lorin escribió:
> Hello Jusdado,
> I agree with Keith, it might be worth getting a new batch of ferric. I
> made a new batch yesterday and it was completely dissolved in 30mn at
> 45C using hot plate and magnetic stirrer.
> Lionel Turban of Disactis has published a recipe online:
> It's in French, but basically, here are the instructions for a 26%
> In a beaker, add:
> - 50ml distilled water
> - 13g ferric oxalate
> - 1g oxalic acid
> Heat on a magnetic plate stirrer for 30 to 45mn between 40 and 50C,
> until completely dissolved. The solution will go from cloudy green to
> cloudy light brown to clear dark brown.
> Cut the heat and reduce the spin, add 8g of oxalic acid. Sir on on the
> magnetic plate until completely dissolved [doesn't take long]
> Let rest in a dark place for 48 to 72 hours. The solution will turn to
> dark green and you will have a deposit of oxalic acid at the bottom,
> which pulled the ferrous from the solution.
> Filter using a medium lab filter and it's ready. It is possible that
> there will be a base fog with this solution, in which case he suggests
> adding 10 to 12 drops of hydrogen peroxide 30% and let again rest for
> 24 to 48 hours, with no cap on as a gas would build up otherwise.
> Store in a brown bottle. Shelf life is approx. 3 months.
> I've just moved to Germany from the U.S. and this my first experience
> in making solution from powder. I always bought my chemistry from B&S
> when living in the U.S., and it was a lot easier.
> I've made four or five batches in the past few months and without any
> headache. The results are excellent. My prints clear very nicely, have
> a good dmax and not a hint of fog in my white, which I find admirable.
> I think this is the effect of the hydrogen peroxide. It also has the
> effect of compressing the tonal range.
> That said, I just ordered some ferric powder from B&S, as it is as
> easy as mixing it with water, and doesn't require a week of
> preparation. Also the shelf life is much longer. I've used it for
> nearly ten years and it is as good as it gets, and Melody Bostick said
> the powder will last for a very long time.
> As Keith said, it sounds as if it is time to replace your ferric. If
> you decide to buy from Disactis and make your own, you can get the
> ferric, oxalic acid and hydrogen peroxide from them. But I don't think
> it will cost you a lot more to order from B&S.
> Best of luck!
> Gilles Lorin
> +49 160 127 3448
> gilles at gilleslorin.com <mailto:gilles at gilleslorin.com>
> www.gilleslorin.com <http://www.gilleslorin.com>
> On Mar 5, 2016, at 22:17, jusdado via Alt-photo-process-list
> <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org
> <mailto:alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>> wrote:
>> El 05/03/16 a las 22:09, Keith Schreiber via Alt-photo-process-list
>>> Sullivan specifically recommended dancing to Chubbie Checker! Part
>>> of the magic I guess.;)
>>> The EDTA and oxalic acid are not necessary, though I too have been
>>> using them for many years. I just did a test with and without and
>>> found that exposure time was slightly faster with the additives,
>>> Dmax was slightly higher without them. The latter part of this is
>>> contrary to what I and most everyone else have believed about this
>>> for as long as I can remember. I think the difference is pretty much
>>> insignificant though, so I am not trying to discourage anyone from
>>> using them.
>>> There are a couple of articles on the B&S website that you might
>>> find interesting if you are not already familiar with them. They are
>>> actually rather old but undated. I think it is all drawn from things
>>> Sullivan had published elsewhere in the '80s and '90s.
>>> All About Ferric Oxalate <>
>>> The Care and Feeding of Ferric Oxalate <>
>>> According to Dana at B&S, repeated cycles of heating and cooling do
>>> more harm than good.
>>> Ferric oxalate is the cheap part of these processes. If your stock
>>> is really from 2003, I strongly recommend replacing it. If you meant
>>> 2013, it might still be useable. My old supply was from 2012 or 2013
>>> and I am giving up on it.
>>> ~ Keith
>> Thanks Keith, I'll go to site B & S to read all about the ferric oxalate.
>> I confirm my Oxalate is 2003.
>> Thanks again.
>> Alt-photo-process-list | altphotolist.org <http://altphotolist.org>
Gilles Thanks for your reply.
After seeing and reading about ferric oxalate, is that: my ferric
oxalate powder yellow but B & S and DISACTIS is green. I think my
Oxalate is not adequate.
My container says: OXALATE IRON II 2-HYDRATE and its chemical formula is
Fe (COO) 2.2H2O
I left stirring overnight at room temperature but 10 ° C. He is now
resting, but the result is the same, in the bottom of the container,
yellow mud and on top, water with light yellow.
I try to find a new batch of oxalate.
Thanks to all.
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