[Alt-photo] cyanotype paper
jacqueskv at gmail.com
Wed Dec 6 08:50:46 UTC 2017
A couple of images say more than 1000 words :-)
Just have a look to the pics here;
At a Picto Benelux meeting we proceeded very similarly to what Eddy said,
with good results:
in the darkroom
soaking the fabric in a bucket of solution, wringing it and letting it dry
in the dark
(solution formula at the bottom of the website page)
Exposure under the sun, wash in a container with water, let dry
Première Avenue 7
+32 2 653 56 02
2017-12-05 16:48 GMT+01:00 Fernando Cruz via Alt-photo-process-list <
alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>:
> Thanks for the information, I still have doubts on how to apply the
> solution to a large canvas.
> In my workshops I've noticed that even though students sometimes prepare
> the formula with different proportions they always achieve a resulting
> image which invariably delights them.
> I have been running pinhole and cyanotype workshops in remote locations
> for several years now. The conditions in these places are not even close to
> ideal for setting up a lab and you can forget about using distilled water -
> transporting equipment is just not feasible. However, with bare minimum,
> indispensable elements you can work wonders and the resulting joy for the
> participants after producing a cyanotype or taking a photo with a tin can
> is extremely gratifying.
> Fernando Cruz
> Cr 14 # 75-29
> > El 4/12/2017, a las 10:31 p.m., "Christina Z. Anderson via
> Alt-photo-process-list" <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>
> > Dear Fernando,
> > Say hi to Servane for me!
> >> do I use Cristina's 1x1 mix
> > I shouldn’t have opened that can of worms before I have more data to
> share. Please don’t let my 10/10 mix confuse the cyanotype “canon” if there
> is such a thing. I might stick with a 20/10 to go along with Novo’s
> calculations and also Mike Ware’s p. 92 Cyanomicon II 26%/12% (equivalent
> to 20/9.25% or 20/10 close enough).
> > As my dear friend and mentor Sam Wang sagely advised me, unless there is
> a compelling reason to switch, why.
> > The 10/10 came out of when I tested the extremes of cyanotype from
> 4FAC:1PF to 1FAC:4PF thinking the excess potassium ferricyanide would fail.
> I was quite surprised that I preferred the more turquoise of the 1:4, and
> it was smoother, it absorbed better into the paper, less washout, long
> tonal range, albeit the DMax was less. But it made me decide to continue
> testing all the papers at 10/10 and then go back and test at 20/10.
> > Surprisingly exposures range the same as they did with the 20/10, or
> even less, 19-24 minutes typical for most papers.
> > In 100 formulas from 1844 on, the ratio of ferric ammonium citrate to
> potassium ferricyanide varies from half as much fac to pf, to sixteen times
> as much fac to pf, so for me to label anything “traditional” is kind of a
> moving target.
> > Also, as far as canvas to use? There is a 100% cotton muslin canvas you
> might be able to find; I used to get it through Daniel Smith. But you may
> need to double coat to make sure it absorbs enough solution. I used to buy
> unsized canvas like that when I was a painter.
> > Chris
> > _______________________________________________
> > Alt-photo-process-list | altphotolist.org
> Alt-photo-process-list | altphotolist.org
More information about the Alt-photo-process-list