[Alt-photo] To wax or not to wax?

bobkiss caribsurf.com bobkiss at caribsurf.com
Wed Dec 6 18:45:19 UTC 2017


Please remember that bees wax is no longer recommended because it tends to yellow over time. As I was reminded a few months ago, what I have been using all along is microcrystalline wax which I prepare myself but you can easily buy Renaissance Wax. Microcrystalline wax is carefully purified petroleum wax and, if use with the correct solvent, does not yellow. 



From: "alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org" <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org> 
To: "Brittonie" <brittonie at gmail.com>, "alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org" <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org> 
Sent: Wednesday, December 6, 2017 2:09:49 PM 
Subject: Re: [Alt-photo] To wax or not to wax? 

Where does one get lavender oil? I have seen it at a few places but it tends to be very expensive. Do I just need to bite the bullet and pay it. 
Thanks 
Bruce 


Sent from my iPad 



On Dec 6, 2017, at 1:32 AM, Brittonie via Alt-photo-process-list <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org> wrote: 

I sometimes use a renaissance wax it can give the illusion of increased d max 

Also use with my calotypes. 

Doesn't smell as nice as bees wax and lavender but it's what I hear museums use. 




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On 6 Dec 2017, at 08:40, Victor Malakhov via Alt-photo-process-list <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org> wrote: 

Hi Rob, 

I sometimes wax my cyanos in order to get glossier, clearer image with 
better micro contrasts. There is actually no need to increase the 
permanence of a cyano, it's long living enough. But still you will get 
some more protection and stability of the surface. The only point you 
have to consider: the cerate coat will tone your image slightly warm 
and is quite prone to dust and other impurities which are flying 
around and can be attracted by the coat. 

I make my cerate for coating by myself, for that you need the best and 
clearest beewax (cera), turpentine and damar resin. I can give you the 
precise recipe later if you need. Or you can just look it up in one of 
the books by Peter Mrhar, I think it was in the book to the salt 
prints. 

The finish mixture is kind of a soft paste, which you can easily apply 
to the picture's surface with a piece of clear cotton cloth formed to 
a ball. Then I polish it with a second ball or even with a harder 
brush - just like you would do it with your shoes :) 

best, 
Victor 




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Hi All, 




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I was wondering what folks think about waxing prints. Does it make 
a difference to the image either visually or to its permanence? If 
you recommend it, what is your process? 
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Thanks 
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Rob 
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-- 

-- 

_______________________________ 

Victor Malakhov 

VIC TOR PHOTOGRAPHY 
www.vic-tor-photography.de 
info at vic-tor-photoraphy.de 

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