[Frameworks] DVD to 16mm
m_alex_morris at yahoo.com
Tue Jan 17 23:42:41 CST 2012
Oddly enough, I'm shooting off my MacBook pro with a bolex as I write this. I find it most effective, if tedious, to expose one frame at a time to avoid the rolling effect. Now, I've created content in Final cut in a 24p timeline, so I don't have the issue of having to retime a 29.97 frame rate to avoid slowing it down. You'd either have to do some math (reversing the idea of a 3:2 pulldown, which is more math than I want to do...) or (someone who uses cinema tools more often than me correct me if in wrong) I think it might be possible to conform the video to 24p, then making it possible to expose frame by frame.
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 21:06:39 -0500
From: Steven Gladstone <Steven at gladstonefilms.com>
Subject: Re: [Frameworks] DVD to 16mm
To: Experimental Film Discussion List <frameworks at jonasmekasfilms.com>
Message-ID: <4F16292F.3050904 at gladstonefilms.com>
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On 1/17/12 6:36 PM, Philippe Leonard wrote:
> Just shoot it with any film camera pointed to an LCD screen such as you
This does work, but is not "perfect."
The reason you don't get the dreaded roll bar on an LCD screen is
because the pixels are always "on." Granted there is a florescent light
source for the LCD. On a CRT, the picture is written on, and then
blanked, before the next image is written on to the screen. This is done
alternating lines, first odd lines (1,3,5,7,9,11 - 525) then even
(2,4,6,8,10-524.) So the image is broken into two fields - running at
59.94. So since the camera is running at 24, the roll bar is the
shifting blanking interval.
With an LCD screen, although you don't see the big nasty roll bar, there
is a small sizzling line that passes through the image.
If you can get a hold of The Arri 35 Book (Jon Fauer) there is a great
section on shooting off a TV screen.
New York Based Cinematographer
Blog - http://indiekicker.reelgrok.com/
Sent from my iPhone
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